Bo Christensen på Ama Dablam S-grat, ca. 6000 m
Foto: Bill Tilman.
Billedet viser Mischief på Østgrønland ved Skjoldungen og det er sendt
til Tilman's ven og bjergklubbens daværende formand, Erik Hoff.
Den håndskrevne tekst på bagsiden
In Skjoldungen in Halvdans Harbour. Had a look at the big rock peak but
did not bag it. A very fine one indeed.
(klik på billedet for større kopi)
Tidligere besøgende kan starte her
I seem to distinguish two sorts of climbers, those who take a high line about climbing and those who take no particular line at all... I can hardly believe that the second sort are such fools as I imagine.
De som har følt hvad livet blandt tinderne er eller kan være for et menneske, behøver ikke at læse om det, og de, som aldrig har følt det, vil saa allikevel ikke forstaa.
Carl Wilhelm Rubenson,
These men who [bolt] the rock with such monotonous regularity, where performance lack all originality, imagination and inventiveness - it can only be assumed that they make lousy lovers.
i MoRe, 1993
Pæn atletisk fyr i fyrrene. Bjergbestigning, yoga, ambitiøs, intuitiv, følsom, kærlighedsfuld. S/M forførelsesleg, transformation, selvudvikling. Søger passende, oprigtig pige. Ægteskab mulighed. Barn velkommen. Nordsjælland/København. Billet POL 37535.
i Politiken jan. 1995
These smart, articulate, attractive and strong men I know among climbers must have something in common. Is it fear or emptiness?
Brev fra kvindelig læser
i Rock & Ice
Svar til ovenstående.
Kvinder er noget lort. Det eneste man kan stole på er ens udstyr.
Bent Ro Dahl
It's really so unimportant whether someone climbs a 5.14. It's only a personal satisfaction.
"What is the use of going up mountains"? is a question which is often put. To such I would say: "Go up a good-sized mountain and you will know!"
Edward Whymper, 1861
Will work for $ food or drugs. My name is Steve & I have a big old backbone. I will carry your gear to the base of any climb. I'm trying to raise $ for Gunks trip. Also possible barter for gear/beer.
Leave name & campsite.
Steve, Camp 4 note, 1994
(typisk klatre-undskylding: Når man er i vest-USA vil man til øst-USA).
The essence of the sport lies not in ascending a peak, but in struggling with and overcoming difficulties.
Mummery, 1895 (den moderne klatrings fader)
If you ever kill yourself on a mountain it just invalidates all your past success.
Don Whillans (engelsk hardman I 50'erne og 60'erne og skaber af adskillige barske "one-liners")
The mountains will always be there. The trick is for you to be there as well.
You might get up big walls, but it's in getting down that all the dangers lie. Get that wrong and you are in deep, deep doo-doos.
Victor Saunders, 1993
There is no direct route to take when crossing rivers and rocks. You should explore the way as you go.
Guru Rinpoche, Indisk mystiker og troldmand (ca. år 900)
If there are no famous hills then nothing needs to done. But since there are many they must be visited.
Chang Cha'o, kinesisk vismand
Tom Patey var en af Skotlands mest farverige klatrere i 60'erne. Han var kendt for sin uvilje til at binde sig ind i et reb, og for hans meget humoristiske noveller, artikler og sange, der er samlet i bogen "One man's mountains". Han omkom under en abseilulykke i 1970. Et lille citatpluk lyder:
The man who sacrifices a sunny day transporting some inadequate fellow up a climb (which he, the incompetent, selects) deserves every penny he earns.
A solo climber: One man falling alone
A roped party: Several men falling simultaneosly
Safety helmet: A sefety device for climbers falling headfirst. If the fall is long the climber may become completely impacted in his helmet into a small globular mass, which can be easily stowed in a rucksack (see "mountain rescue")
A carefull climber: A slow climber
A climbing-nut: A reckless climber
A running belay: A cowardly second
An alpine veteran: Someone who has been to the Alps
An expedition: Going climbing in country other than one's own
A classic route: Much loose rock and grass
A Diritissima: A very long free fall or "Plunge"
Aid-climbing with Royal Robbins:
When I emerged on to the top of the cliff, Royal glanced inquiringly at my hands. They where criss-crossed with cuts and covered in blood. "Back home in the States" he remarked, "they say you can always distinguish a good Aid Man by his hands."
"Lots of scars?" I suggested hopefully.
Royal shook his head gently. "No scars," he said.
No tiny fingers, No tiny toes
The memory lingers but the digit goes
In an Eastern Railway carriage, where the River Ganges flows
There are Twenty Tiny Fingers and Twenty Tiny Toes.
Chop chop chop chop chop chop chop chop chop
Sidste vers i en sang om den franske Annapurna-ekspedition, 1950
Men hensigten, spør folket, meningen, maalet? Der er ingen hensigt, der er
intet maal. Tindesporten er meningsløs som selve livet - derfor kan dens
trolddom aldig dø.
Peter Wessel Zapffe
Q: What's the difference between a bad golfer and a bad climber ?
A: A bad golfer sounds like this: "Whack... Damn!"
A bad climber sounds like this: "Damn... Whack!"
Først når jeg ser breen, forsvinder kvalmen.
Harold William (Bill) Tilman (1898 - 1977) var - kort fortalt - en af
det sidste århundredes største bjerg-udforskere, der bl.a. sammen med
Eric Shipton foretog talrige rejser i Himalaya; altid med lavt budget og
kort planlægning. Han følte allerede i 1953, at Nepal var overrendt med
turister, og foretog derefter alle rejser til søs, mest ombord på sit
lille skib, Mischief. Tilman har skrevet en lang række meget
læseværdige bøger. Han forsvandt i Sydatlanten ombord på skibet En
Get back to real climbing! No need for frills such as sponsors, expedition notepaper,
computerized menus and all that oxygen nonsense!
All travel is dull exactly in proportion to its rapidity.
1937, Snow on the Equator
The heaviest stone which melancholy can throw at a man, is to know
that there is no breakfast.
1949, Two mountains and a river
Whatever happens in this world never let it spoil your dinner.
1957, In Mischiefs Wake
We live and learn, and big mountains are stern teachers.
1949, Two mountains and a river
In my view every herring should hang by it's own tail. Anyone venturing
into unfrequented and possible dangeous waters does so with his eyes open,
should be willing to depend on his own exertions, and should neither
expect nor ask for help. This confidence that is placed, and successfully
placed, in being rescued fosters carelessnss or even foolishness, and
I will not guess at the angel for fear of being called a liar, but it
seemed to me that a man with a long nose, standing upright, could haved
wiped it on the snow.
1947, When men and mountains meet, Zemu Gap.
On dealing with avalanches the only safe rule is to take every
precaution, trust nothing, and expect one day to be caught out.
Abstinence from low pleasures is the only means of meriting or
obtaining the higher.
We ignored a lesson that we have learnt a dozen years before; that to
climb a mountain for it's height and fame alone is infinitely less
rewarding than to attempt a peak whose form has charmed, or to cast new
ligth upon an attractive mountain range.
om sit og Tilmans forsøg på Muztagh Ata, i 'Mountains of Tatary'
* * * * * * * * *
Gritstone is not limestone and is consequently lots of fun to climb.
If yo train on a wall and work at it, you can definitely get up those
[hard limestone-] climbs, whereas the same is not true for grit.
I respect limestone climbers for their stamina, but they're going to
find a new name for their sport.
The thing that are most enjoyable are plummelig up 5bs on seacliffs, or
soloing HVS on grit.
Competition are the only future for sports climbing. Climbing as a mass
sport on artificial climbing walls has long ceased to be utopia. Next to
football grounds and tennis halls we will soon have climbing halls and
natural rock will again be just as lonely and ignored as when climbing was
a sport for individuals.
Heinz Mariacher, 1985
Indoor competition will give rockclimbing a chance to return to what is
used to be. A way of living: Poor but free!
Stefan Glowacz, 1988
You see, adventure and danger are inextricable parts of climbing,
remove them and you have something else, the shallow and socially
acceptable pastime that is rapidly becoming as popular as step-aerobics.
Dave Pegg, 1994
Sportklatring er ingen af delene!
All you need is chalk and balls and you're ready to cruise.
Jimmy Jewel, engelsk soloklatrer, dræbt under klatring
There are old climbers and bold climbers, but there are no old, bold
There are only three sports - mountain climbing, bull fighting, and
motor racing - all others being games.
Klatrere har aldri hatt så lite status og vært så lite verdt som
nå. Og kanske aldrig hatt så dårlig drag på damene.
Marius Morstad, 1995
Everst: The world's higest mountain. It's height of 29028 ft has now
been officially amended to 29034 ft to take account of the climber who is
normally observed at the summit.
Everest is the ultimate feather in the pseudo-mountaineers cap.
Letting inexperienced people loose on a 8000-meter peak is like giving
a drunk an Uzi with a full clip.
Eventyrlige oplevelser beror på uduelighed.
Vilhjalmur Stefanson, canadisk polarforsker
Bjergbestigning er sjovest, når bjergene er høje og stejle.
Pingo, i 'Rasmus Klump som bjergbestiger'
Believe in yourself. Seek adventure. Take care. Have fun.
I don't want to write about climbing; I don't want to talk about it; I
don't want to photograph it; I don't want to think about it; all I want to
do is do it.